Mart Gnosis

If anyplace on earth is a natural paradise, Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia is that place. Of all Croatia’s eight National Parks, Plitvice is the oldest and most visited. It’s easy to see why. Bears and wolves lurk in its primeval forest; schools of silvery fish dart through its pristine rivers; its beech trees are a cacophony of chattering birds. The crown jewels are the 16 translucent lakes connected to each other by a breathtaking series of cascades. Dazzling as the Plitvice national park appeared on a recent visit, I couldn’t help recalling that this exceptional site was a war zone during the breakup of former Yugoslavia.

Located near Croatia’s then- disputed border with Bosnia-Hercegovina, the park’s troubles began in 1991 when the Yugoslav army seized the park and turned it into an army barracks. The Croatian army forced them out in 1995 but, a year later, the effects of war were everywhere. The area surrounding the park was a nightmarish landscape of bombed out houses and abandoned farms. The park’s three hotels were shot to pieces and part of the lake system was closed while specialists removed mines from the falls and forests.

Shaking off the aura of gloom, I set out to tour the park that UNESCO had named a world heritage site. Even with only half the park open, I was soon entranced.

Miles of wooden walkways wound over, under and alongside the falls. From merry two-foot bubblers to long walls laced with foam, the falling water was everywhere. I resolved to return one day when the park had been rebuilt.

It happened that my grand return to Plitvice occurred this year at the end of a long, hard winter in central Croatia. Although I had visions of tranquil lakes shimmering under a blue sky the weather turned out to be cold, foggy and damp. But damp is good in Plitvice. Between the melting winter snow and days of rain, much of the park was a roaring mass of water. Water pounded into swollen lakes, flooded out the walkways and splashed through the trees. It was splendid.

Even better was the lack of other visitors. In the intervening nine years, Plitvice Lakes National Park has become Croatia’s busiest tourist attraction welcoming some 750,000 tourists a year. Nearly all come in July and August. “Please tell people to come in spring and autumn, if they can” my guide begged me. The newly renovated hotels are now completely booked up in the summer and the walkways are elbow to elbow with camera clickers.

Although missing the summer greenery, I quickly grew to appreciate the bare trees that allowed an unobstructed view of the lakes and falls. It was clear that the lake system is divided into four lower and twelve upper lakes. Just past the main entrance, the Korana River drops a torrent of water 258 feet into a frothing pool that begins the lower lakes. Lying at the bottom of a canyon, the narrow lower lakes are bordered by steep limestone walls and climb like a giant staircase to the upper lakes. Wider and surrounded by dense forest, the upper lakes lie on a bed of dolomite. At the very top, the White and Black rivers are the spigots that water the park. The high mineral content of the lakes explains their extraordinary colors, which range from day-glow green to deep azure.

Examining the crystalline water of the top lake, I noticed that the leaves and branches settled on the bottom were acquiring a metallic coating. It was the travertine process in action. The water absorbs minerals from the dolomite underlying the upper lakes and coats the plant life, turning it to porous travertine stone. The new travertine sprouts moss and plants that again petrify and the process repeats itself. All the barriers separating the upper lakes are composed of travertine constantly growing and changing shape.

If you go to Plitvice, you don’t need to stay long enough to turn to travertine but the park merits more time than it usually gets. Lying about 85 miles north of Zadar and south of Zagreb, many people rush through the park on their way to or from the coast. It’s possible to see a lot of waterfalls in three or four hours but you’ll need a number of days to fully explore the trails. The three-star Hotel Jezero is the best of the park’s three hotels but there are plenty of small pensions and private rooms in the villages around the park.

Jeanne Oliver has written all three editions of Lonely Planet’s Croatia guidebook. To find out more about traveling to Croatia and to book your trip, visit Jeanne’s website, http://www.croatiatraveller.com

Are you aware that it’s perfectly possible to obtain a mobile phone absolutely cost free with12 months free line rental? This means that you will be given a free cell phone handset with free inclusive text messages and free inclusive minutes without paying a dime for them!About now you are probably thinking that this is a bogus deal, but you can rest assured these offers are the real deal!The idea is to play cell phone companies at their own game. Understand this, mobile phone companies advertise free line rental mobiles just to get potential buyers into the store. Before they attach loads of strings to the deals to reduce the numbers of customers that actually take out and successfully obtain a free line rental deal.The way free line rental promotions operate is that the customer sign up for a mobile phone contract in the usual manner, and make sure they pay the bill as normal. Then, at pre defined intervals within the 12 month term of the mobile contract the customer can to send off for cash back. At this time the store who sold you the mobile sends you a cheque. Typically three separate claims need to be made before you recover 100% of the cost of your mobile phone.Now heres the deal, the stores ensure the process of getting your money back as difficult as possible, as they insist you provide phone bills (which you may lose). They may also insist upon specific dates for the claim (which you may not remember) and put in place various other tricks and loopholes. So, you must be on the ball and beat them at their own game!Fully read the contract, make a note of the dates, keep paperwork safe and make sure your claim is on time and you can get a cell phone cost free for a full 12 months!The reality is that stores don’t mind throwing away a few of these mobile handsets cost free as it is a a good promotion for them. Being able to advertise “cost free cellphones” raises the standing of their shop, and, as they recognize just a few individuals are likely to get through all the pitfalls needed to obtain a free line rental deal, it does not actually cost them that much!A free line rental offer may not be the right for everyone as you must be organised and be sure you properly finish all of the steps of your claim properly, but, a 12 months free line rental mobile is certainly something worth due consideration if you are price aware.